Chirashi Sushi Jyo-sen.
I joined the dark side, and got a fidget spinner, just to see what the fuss was about! When i first started seeing these on YouTube, it seemed like a silly passing fad, but gradually it got me curious, why was this little thingamajig so popular?
This one i have here is a pretty rainbow metal spinner, it’s actually pretty trippy to look at when the blades are spinning. You see a myriad of colors blending together. It makes a very soft high pitched metallic whirring sound. Pretty cool.
50 grams (1/3 cup) small sago (small tapioca pearls)
100 grams green beans (mung beans) soaked overnight, rinsed and drained
2 pandan (screw pine) tied in a knot
1.7 litres water
10 grams (or 3 small pieces) dried orange/tangerine peel
80 grams canned or vacuum-packed lotus seeds or ginkgo nuts optional
70 grams rock sugar to taste
Bring a small pot of water to boil. Add sago and simmer for 10 minutes. Turn off the stove, cover the pot with lid and let the sago continue to cook on its own for another 10 minutes, until all the sago turns translucent. Run the cooked sago through a fine sieve and running water to remove excess starch. Set aside. Check out this step-by-step photo tutorial for preparing sago.
In a bigger soup pot, add green beans, pandan leaves, water and orange peel. Bring to a boil.
Add lotus seeds/gingko nuts and reduce heat to a simmer, partially covered, for about 50 minutes (or until the beans are soft), stirring the sides and bottom of the pot occasionally. Top up with hot water at any time if needed.
Stir in rock sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Discard orange peel slices and pandan leaves. Add the cooked sago prepared in step 1 to the green bean soup. Serve warmed or chilled.
Tillandsia fuchsii v. gracilis is a Tillandsia from Guatamala, commonly known as an airplant. This airplant has been called Tillandsia argentina ‘fine leaf’ before, but this is an incorrect name. Tillandsias are specialized bromeliads that generally are not appropriate for vivarium use due to their need for air circulation and must be allowed to dry out between waterings. If you choose to use Tillandsias in a vivaria, please ensure you provide adequate airflow! Tillandsias make excellent terrarium or container garden subjects.
Tillandsia fuchsii v. gracilis is an epiphyte in nature, and can grow attached to the background or hardscape in a naturalistic vivarium. Tillandsia fuchsii v. gracilis should be planted on the background on in the back area of a vivarium, where it can dry out between waterings. When first planting a Tillandsia in a vivarium, consider mounting it upside down, so that any water will run out of the Tillandsia freely. The plant will reorient itself as it grows.
Tillandsia fuchsii v. gracilis has low water needs, and should not have standing water on it’s leaves. Tillandsias MUST be able to dry out between waterings. Tillandsia fuchsii v. gracilis has moderate to high light needs – under more intense light, Tillandsia fuchsii v. gracilis will display brighter colors. Tillandsias simply cannot handle low light conditions. Tillandsia fuchsii v. gracilis is a slow grower, and will form clumps consisting of the mother plant surrounded by pups, or younger plants that grow off of the mother plant. Tillandsia fuchsii v. gracilis appreciates ample air circulation.